Archives for posts with tag: Proenza Schouler

I just found my next favorite collection, courtesy of one Mr. Dries van Noten. He artfully juxtaposed opulent gold lace and embroideries with sportswear vests, let gold ruffles peek out under grey sweatshirts and cascade down the sides of simple cotton dresses or attached gold, super-sized rosettes to the hip of an equally ruched skirt. I asked myself, why do I like this so much? Well, the idea of playing with opposite aesthetics, with the feminine and masculine, combining decadent gold leather or lace with much simpler textures and colors is immensely appealing. And van Noten wasn’t the only one who did it (although for me, in the most original and interesting way). Haider Ackermann, the grand master of gender play, used  shimmering metallic fabrics on a boxy man’s jacket or slouchy shorts. Joseph Altuzarra put his model in a shimmering gold skirt and a simple white shirt. Alber Elbaz at Lanvin showed a thoroughly shimmering collection, not so much mixing the metallics with anything simpler. At Margiela, you had a heavily embelished, totally sequined gold top worn with man’s trousers. And of course, who could forget Proenza Schouler back in New York and their beautiful gold and chrome dresses and shimmery delicate pleated skirts. What do you think, do you like this as much as I do?

DRIES VAN NOTENDries van Noten_1 Dries van Noten_2 Dries van Noten_7 Dries van Noten_8 Dries van Noten_9 Dries van Noten_11 Dries van Noten_15 Dries van Noten_16 Dries van Noten_17 Dries van Noten_18

HAIDER ACKERMANNAckermann_Gold_1 Ackermann_Gold_2 Ackermann_Gold_3 Ackermann_Gold_4 Ackermann_Gold_5 Ackermann_Gold_6

ALTUZARRAAltuzarra_Gold_1

LANVINLanvin_Gold_2 Lanvin_Gold_1

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELAMargiela_Gold_2Margiela_Gold

PROENZA SCHOULERProenza Schouler_6 Proenza Schouler_5 Proenza Schouler_4

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I’m quite late with posting this collection, but it’s one of my favorites so far, so I’m showing it to you anyway.
According to WWD, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the designers behind the brand, were inspired by “West Coast mid-century furniture designers and Arte Povera, the late Sixties movement based on simplicity and nature.” This was translated in the tops, long tunics, loose trousers and coats with their simple structure as well as in the earthy shades. I particularly liked the skirts, which were embellished with pleats in gold and silvery tones. And who can forget the gorgeous shoes (see them here).
All in all, a clean, minimalistic, cutting edge collection.
Proenza Schouler_1 Proenza Schouler_2 Proenza Schouler_3 Proenza Schouler_4 Proenza Schouler_5 Proenza Schouler_6 Proenza Schouler_7 Proenza Schouler_8 Proenza Schouler_9

NYFW has been over for a couple of days now and London Fashion Week is already well under way, but how could I ignore the most important fashion fetish there is: SHOES! So, without further ado and comment; because, really, those suckers totally speak for themselves, here is a (small, but nevertheless gorgeous) selection of shoes:

Alexander Wang
Alexander Wang_4 Alexander Wang_5 Alexander Wang_8

Diane von Furstenberg
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG_5

Helmut Lang
Helmut Lang_9 Helmut Lang_10 Helmut Lang_11 Helmut Lang_12

Jason Wu
Jason Wu_5 Jason Wu_6 Jason Wu_10 Jason Wu_11

Victoria Beckham
Victoria Beckham_1 Victoria Beckham_10

3.1 Phillip Lim
3.1 Phillip Lim_16 3.1 Phillip Lim_17 3.1 Phillip Lim_18 3.1 Phillip Lim_20

Rodarte
Rodarte_1 Rodarte_3 Rodarte_5 Rodarte_9

Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler_12 Proenza Schouler_13 Proenza Schouler_15  Proenza Schouler_17 Proenza Schouler_19 Proenza Schouler_21 Proenza Schouler_22

Ok, so let’s talk some more about the Fall 2013 campaigns. I get that the businesses behind these brands are multi-billion dollar operations that have to sell their merchandise; and in order to achieve that with the greatest amount of success, they have to appeal to a very wide range (of very rich) people. No, actually, they have to appeal to everyone – since the less rich will still buy the perfumes, underwear, sunglasses etc. they can afford – which makes the task even more difficult. So yeah, I guess that they can’t really take any risks, that they can’t experiment with new, innovative marketing ideas. But some of the images presented in the campaigns are so old-fashioned, so predictable, dull and boring, I wouldn’t take a second look if it wasn’t for the famous and renowned name splashed under it. Well, and that’s probably it, in the end: Who needs to risk losing customers with some edgy, over-the-top imagery, if you can just slap your big name under some unimaginative pictures.
So, without further ado, here I present you part I of what I’d like to call the „The Good (yeah, some are still good, after all, see also here and here), The Bad and The Ugly“. Stay tuned for part II, coming tomorrow, and part III, on Thursday.

The Good:

CARVEN
I really love the idea behind this campaign. The images are hauntingly beautiful, irritating and disturbing.  And despite the fact that the merchandise they are trying to sell here – clothes – are out of focus, you somehow still get a feeling for the texture and the (I guess) softness of the material. For my part, I just want to go and cozy up in one of the coats.Carven FW 13.14 Marine Deleeuw by Viviane Sassen_1Carven FW 13.14 Marine Deleeuw by Viviane Sassen_5Carven FW 13.14 Marine Deleeuw by Viviane Sassen_2Carven FW 13.14 Marine Deleeuw by Viviane Sassen_4
Marine Deleeuw shot by Viviane Sassen

PROENZA SCHOULER
I really like the mood going on in these pictures. For me, they have a Hitchcockian feeling about them. I particularly like the digital rendition of the birds in some of the pictures, they ad a somehow threatening edge to the images. The soft colors, airiness and the light are also quite eye-catching.Sasha Pivovarova by David Sims for Proenza Schouler FW 13.14 Ad Camapign 5Sasha Pivovarova by David Sims for Proenza Schouler FW 13.14 Ad Camapign 3Sasha Pivovarova by David Sims for Proenza Schouler FW 13.14 Ad Camapign 1Sasha Pivovarova by David Sims for Proenza Schouler FW 13.14 Ad Camapign 2Sasha Pivovarova by David Sims for Proenza Schouler FW 13.14 Ad Camapign 4Sasha Pivovarova shot by David Sims

STELLA McCARTNEY
Then there’s Stella, who, like Kenzo, is taking a surrealistic approach to her Fall campaign. The edgy scenes were shot in London and show the models partially submerged in a swimming pool (how cool is that, to just drown a really expensive coat in chlorine?) and standing on a street, surrounded by arrows, exclamation points and some more arrows. The slight strangeness and unexpectedness of the pictures are very appealing and a breath of fresh air.stella-mccartney-fw-campaign_1xstella-mccartney-fw-campaign_2xstella-mccartney-fw-campaign_3xstella-mccartney-fw-campaign_4Suvi Koponen and Chiharu Okunugi shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott