Archives for posts with tag: Paris

I just found my next favorite collection, courtesy of one Mr. Dries van Noten. He artfully juxtaposed opulent gold lace and embroideries with sportswear vests, let gold ruffles peek out under grey sweatshirts and cascade down the sides of simple cotton dresses or attached gold, super-sized rosettes to the hip of an equally ruched skirt. I asked myself, why do I like this so much? Well, the idea of playing with opposite aesthetics, with the feminine and masculine, combining decadent gold leather or lace with much simpler textures and colors is immensely appealing. And van Noten wasn’t the only one who did it (although for me, in the most original and interesting way). Haider Ackermann, the grand master of gender play, used  shimmering metallic fabrics on a boxy man’s jacket or slouchy shorts. Joseph Altuzarra put his model in a shimmering gold skirt and a simple white shirt. Alber Elbaz at Lanvin showed a thoroughly shimmering collection, not so much mixing the metallics with anything simpler. At Margiela, you had a heavily embelished, totally sequined gold top worn with man’s trousers. And of course, who could forget Proenza Schouler back in New York and their beautiful gold and chrome dresses and shimmery delicate pleated skirts. What do you think, do you like this as much as I do?

DRIES VAN NOTENDries van Noten_1 Dries van Noten_2 Dries van Noten_7 Dries van Noten_8 Dries van Noten_9 Dries van Noten_11 Dries van Noten_15 Dries van Noten_16 Dries van Noten_17 Dries van Noten_18

HAIDER ACKERMANNAckermann_Gold_1 Ackermann_Gold_2 Ackermann_Gold_3 Ackermann_Gold_4 Ackermann_Gold_5 Ackermann_Gold_6


LANVINLanvin_Gold_2 Lanvin_Gold_1

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELAMargiela_Gold_2Margiela_Gold

PROENZA SCHOULERProenza Schouler_6 Proenza Schouler_5 Proenza Schouler_4

There has been much debate about the lack of racial and body diversity during fashion week, with designers such as Céline, Dior and many more employing none or only one or two models of colour for their runway shows.
In the meantime, there is Rick Owens. Always unconventional and showing the unexpected, he hired a competitive step dance team from the US to model his collection. And of course, being a step team, they didn’t strut down the runway – no, they pounded it to the ground, step dancing, cheerleading, military drilling and mean faces making.
So, while the discussion about diversity continues to rage, Owens lets an almost all black, full-figured team of women rock his collection, making you forget that allegedly, clothes only look good on extra thin, extra young and extra white models. Or, in his own words: “We’re rejecting conventional beauty, creating our own beauty.” Amen to that.
Check out some videos here.

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So, Lady Gaga released her new video yesterday and of course, the main thing I’m interested in is: What the hell is she wearing? With her usual theatrics and shenanigans you can always count on some major fashion statement, so let’s see some of the things she came up with this time.
Brandon Maxwell, Gaga’s stylist, explained that the concept for the video was: “What would you do for the applause?” Not digging very deep here, since the song’s title is “Applause”… Well, whatever, I’m not here for some pseudo-intellectual babble, I’m here for the costumes, so let’s get to them!
First, we have a surreal top by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac that looks like two gloved hands grasping her breasts, worn with a matching glove-choker, coordinating leather gloves and some glove-panties.
Gaga_8Gaga_3Well, of course, she wasn’t the first who came up with that idea:barbra-hand-gloves

Next, we have a a custom Gareth Pugh pillow gown worn over a black catsuit by Mila Schön. Very simple, very beautiful.Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 12.47.03Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 12.47.38

When I saw the green jacket Gaga is wearing next, I knew I had seen it not too long ago: Yep, it was the Maison Martin Margiela Couture jacket shown a couple of months ago at Paris Couture week. Gaga’s sister Natali Germanotta designed the mirror-and-pin costume she’s wearing it with.Gaga_4Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 12.48.41Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 12.59.06Margiela_3b

The lingerie Gaga is wearing here is by Valentino Couture, the boots are Alaïa. Quite boring, really, and I think I saw a similar pair of panties at H&M last week.Gaga_10Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 12.59.48Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 13.00.00

The seashell pasties and bottoms were made by Perry Meek from fresh flowers, glue, sea shells, obviously, and string. And yes, the inspiration behind this outfit – no prizes for guessing that right – is Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus. The singer recently tweeted a photo of her in that outift with the hashtag #boticellibabe.Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 13.19.22Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 13.24.49Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 13.24.17Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 13.20.13

The wings worn here are made by Junker Designs from broken umbrella spokes.Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 13.15.23Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 13.15.32Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 13.22.44

Maxwell commissioned New York based fashion designer Mathieu Mirano to design this bra. He said that it was made of duct tape that had been burned with a blow torch; it had crystals on it and safety pins stuck through it for a rougher feel.Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 13.37.04Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 13.37.17

And last, but not least: How beautiful does Gaga look in these stills? Gorgeous, non?Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 12.24.17Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 12.48.57Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 12.49.59Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 12.50.58Bildschirmfoto 2013-08-20 um 12.50.11

So, we all know by now what the next H&M collaboration will be. I’m not as excited yet as I was last Fall with Margiela, so we’ll see what French designer Isabel Marant will have to offer. In any case, I’m still very curious, I really just love me a designer-highstreet collaboration (I even like getting up at 5 in the morning to stand in line for hours with other fashion-crazed people). So, while we wait for the cheap edition of the coveted clothes, here is a look at the current Fall 2014 campaign for the fashion brand’s regular line. The Canadian model Daria Werbowy was shot by Karim Sadli and styled by Marie-Amelie Sauvé.

Always one of the most highly anticipated shows of the season, Karl Lagerfeld showed a post-apocalyptic, futuristic vision for Chanel Couture Fall 2013. Well, this is all well and good, but I’m afraid you will have to look at the collection somewhere else because I’m unable to concentrate on anything else but the bands models wore over each of their nails, fingers and knuckles. Wouldn’t they fit just perfectly into my collection?

And on a side note: Look at who the hair and make-up shown at Chanel reminded me of!
Chanel_7Chanel_8Blade Runner Hair