Archives for posts with tag: Milan Fashion Week

Jil Sander is leaving her eponymous label for the third time after designing for three seasons. She first left in 2000 after Prada bought a controlling stake in her company, only to come back in 2003 and then exit again in 2004. After Raf Simons started his tenure as Dior’s creative director in 2012, it was announced that she would be returning once again. Her last collection showed at spring-summer 2014 Milan Fashion Week. According to WWD, she is leaving for personal reasons; her in-house design team will be responsible for the Fall 2014 collection. Even though I liked what Simons did for the brand better than what Sander did herself, it makes more sense to me if the person whose name is on the label also actually designs the clothes. So I don’t know what to think of it. I guess, let speculation about who will replace her begin.

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Julia Nobis, the one who always looks like she couldn’t care less, who’d rather be somewhere else, doing something else, born in Sydney, Australia, with the ghostly pale skin, the big nose and strong face, walked innumerable runways this past fashion month, all the while showing us how a truly great model changes herself, time and again. Wang_Nobis_1 Viktor & Rolf_Nobis_1 Victoria Beckham_Nobis Versace_Nobis_2 Versace_Nobis Vera Wang_Nobis_2 Valentino_Nobis_4 Valentino_Nobis_2 Tommy Hilfiger_Nobis_2 Saint Laurent_Nobis_4 Salvatore Ferragamo_Nobis Tommy Hilfiger_Nobis Saint Laurent_Nobis_2 Roberto Cavalli_Nobis Reed Krakoff_Nobis_2 Reed Krakoff_Nobis Proenza Schouler_Nobis_2 Rag & Bone_Nobis_2 Paco Rabanne_Nobis Marni_Nobis_2 Missoni_Nobis_1 Michael Kors_Nobis_1 Narciso Rodriguez_Nobis Louis Vuitton_Nobis_2 Marc by Marc Jacobs_Nobis_1 Marc Jacobs_Nobis_2 Marni_Nobis smiles Lanvin_Nobis_4 Lanvin_Nobis_1 Jil Sander_Nobis_2 Jil Sander_Nobis_3 Lacoste_Nobis_1 Lacoste_Nobis_2 Jason Wu_Nobis_2 Hermès_Nobis Haider Ackermann_Nobis Givenchy_Nobis_2 Dries van Noten_Nobis_1 Emilio Pucci_Nobis Edun_Nobis Dior_Nobis_2 Dior_Nobis_3 Diesel Black Gold_Nobis Diane Von Furstenberg_Nobis_1 Chanel_Nobis_2 Derek Lam_Nobis_1 Céline_Nobis Calvin Klein_Nobis_3 Anthony Vaccarello_Nobis_1 Calvin Klein_Nobis_2 Balenciaga_Nobis_1 Anna Sui_Nobis Altuzarra_Nobis_4 Altuzarra_Nobis_1 Alexander McQueen_Nobis_8 Alexander McQueen_Nobis_7 Alexander McQueen_Nobis_3

There were lots of great collections in Milan (Jil Sander and Marni to name but a few), but after having seen Prada, there is really nothing much left to hear, see or do. Miuccia Prada showed such a rich, intelligent collection, managing to show beautiful clothes, while at the same time making a strong political-feminist statement.
So: If you weren’t interested in political messages, you’d find gorgeous color combinations, three-dimensional embellishments, gems and crystals, classically beautiful gowns and tiny, extremely ladylike handbags. If you wanted weirdness, you’d be happy with the usual pretty-ugly shoes, American Apparel-style leg warmers and sleeveless rugby sweaters worn under elegant dresses. And then, politics: The bras stitched upon coats made you think of the enticement usually associated with them, but the way they were placed on the garments, their shapes and presentation (and the overall styling of the clothes, for that matter) put all sexiness ad absurdum. The strong female faces on the coats and skirts were commissioned by Prada to a group of mural artists; their paintings were also on display in the show’s venue. To quote Miuccia: “I want to inspire women to struggle.”
All together, what on paper may sound like a confounding and incoherent head-scratcher resulted in one of the most creative and innovative collections of Fashion Month so far.

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Milan Fashion Week is already wellllll under way, so let’s see what London Fashion Week had to offer (or more specifically, what I particularly liked)!

Burberry
So, let’s see, what do we have here: the return of the granny panties, worn under see-through lace skirts and combined with some cardigans and sweaters. Soft, pretty pastels, lace shirt dresses, coats, pencil skirts, trench coats and simple sweaters in cashmere, lace, suede and silk with colors ranging from pink to mint, mauve and blue. Everything thrown together made for a somewhat unspectacular, but very cozy looking collection.Burberry Prorsum_1 Burberry Prorsum_2 Burberry Prorsum_3 Burberry Prorsum_4 Burberry Prorsum_5 Burberry Prorsum_6

Christopher Kane
There were flowers all over Kane’s clothes. I particularly liked the metallic outlined, petal shaped cutouts, the sweaters with the cap lettering spelling “FLOWER” or “PETAL” and the dresses and tops showing images of flowers’ reproductive organs as found in old school books. I mean, for Spring, a lot of designers show little flowers here and there, but Kane came up with really new ideas on how to use this old Spring staple. There were also graphics of how photosynthesis works, laser-cut in tops and skirts. And let’s not forget the crocodile clips used to hold the front of dresses together (what do you use them for normally, anyway?).christopher_kane_1christopher_kane_3 christopher_kane_4 christopher_kane_8 christopher_kane_9 christopher_kane_13 christopher_kane_15 christopher_kane_21 christopher_kane_22 christopher_kane_26 christopher_kane_28 christopher_kane_31 christopher_kane_32 christopher_kane_34

Duro Olowu
Honestly, even Mrs. O is a fan of him, and how wouldn’t she? Just look at Olowu’s use of color, how he isn’t afraid to clash prints and textures. Gorgeous.Duro Olowu_1 Duro Olowu_2 Duro Olowu_3 Duro Olowu_4 Duro Olowu_5 Duro Olowu_6 Duro Olowu_7

Emilia Wickstead
Emilia Wickstead’s collection is feminine, fresh and charming. Nothing to get too crazy about, but really nice to look at. Yeah, sometimes, that’s all it takes.Emilia Wickstead_1 Emilia Wickstead_2 Emilia Wickstead_3 Emilia Wickstead_4 Emilia Wickstead_5

Mary Katrantzou
Ms. Katrantzou, the queen of blowing up random things, did  it again; this time with shoes, laces, eyelets and perforations of men’s brogues, sport shoes and evening slippers. Prints and color everywhere, also in her sugary sweet dresses in fluorescent pink, blue, green and yellow, embroidered and adorned with Swarovski crystals, ribbons and mirrors.Mary Katrantzou_1 Mary Katrantzou_2

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Peter Pilotto
Pilotto just announced his collaboration with Target and this time, thanks to Net-a-Porter, which will distribute the collection internationally, people (meaning me) wanting to buy yet another designer collaboration (please, never make them stop), will also have the opportunity to put their greedy hands on it. Oh, and the reason I get all excited? Well, why don’t you take a look:Peter Pilotto_1Peter Pilotto_2 Peter Pilotto_3 Peter Pilotto_4 Peter Pilotto_5 Peter Pilotto_6 Peter Pilotto_7 Peter Pilotto_9 Peter Pilotto_10

Preen
The all-white ensembles, combined with digital print fusing cuboid forms and florals and the somehow stiff and proper shirts made for an eye-catching collection.Preen_1 Preen_2 Preen_3 Preen_4

Roksanda Ilincic
Everything I love about this designer was on display in this collection: sharp silhouettes, geometric patterns, bold colors and color-blocking taken to the next level with bright neon greens and oranges. Roksanda Ilincic_1 Roksanda Ilincic_2 Roksanda Ilincic_3 Roksanda Ilincic_4 Roksanda Ilincic_5 Roksanda Ilincic_6

Tom Ford
Tom doing what Tommy does best: sexy leather, sexy body-hugging, sexy glitter, sexy high(est)-heels, sexy lace-up boots, sexy crystals and sexy glam!Tom Ford_1Tom Ford_2 Tom Ford_3 Tom Ford_4 Tom Ford_5 Tom Ford_6