Archives for category: Fashion Week

Seeing this Spring 2013 Gaultier collection (shown last year), I am once more reminded that I should pay even more attention to menswear. Gorgeous sailor’s trousers, shirts, harem pants, lace fronts and colors – I would wear every single piece.
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Julia Nobis, the one who always looks like she couldn’t care less, who’d rather be somewhere else, doing something else, born in Sydney, Australia, with the ghostly pale skin, the big nose and strong face, walked innumerable runways this past fashion month, all the while showing us how a truly great model changes herself, time and again. Wang_Nobis_1 Viktor & Rolf_Nobis_1 Victoria Beckham_Nobis Versace_Nobis_2 Versace_Nobis Vera Wang_Nobis_2 Valentino_Nobis_4 Valentino_Nobis_2 Tommy Hilfiger_Nobis_2 Saint Laurent_Nobis_4 Salvatore Ferragamo_Nobis Tommy Hilfiger_Nobis Saint Laurent_Nobis_2 Roberto Cavalli_Nobis Reed Krakoff_Nobis_2 Reed Krakoff_Nobis Proenza Schouler_Nobis_2 Rag & Bone_Nobis_2 Paco Rabanne_Nobis Marni_Nobis_2 Missoni_Nobis_1 Michael Kors_Nobis_1 Narciso Rodriguez_Nobis Louis Vuitton_Nobis_2 Marc by Marc Jacobs_Nobis_1 Marc Jacobs_Nobis_2 Marni_Nobis smiles Lanvin_Nobis_4 Lanvin_Nobis_1 Jil Sander_Nobis_2 Jil Sander_Nobis_3 Lacoste_Nobis_1 Lacoste_Nobis_2 Jason Wu_Nobis_2 Hermès_Nobis Haider Ackermann_Nobis Givenchy_Nobis_2 Dries van Noten_Nobis_1 Emilio Pucci_Nobis Edun_Nobis Dior_Nobis_2 Dior_Nobis_3 Diesel Black Gold_Nobis Diane Von Furstenberg_Nobis_1 Chanel_Nobis_2 Derek Lam_Nobis_1 Céline_Nobis Calvin Klein_Nobis_3 Anthony Vaccarello_Nobis_1 Calvin Klein_Nobis_2 Balenciaga_Nobis_1 Anna Sui_Nobis Altuzarra_Nobis_4 Altuzarra_Nobis_1 Alexander McQueen_Nobis_8 Alexander McQueen_Nobis_7 Alexander McQueen_Nobis_3

I just found my next favorite collection, courtesy of one Mr. Dries van Noten. He artfully juxtaposed opulent gold lace and embroideries with sportswear vests, let gold ruffles peek out under grey sweatshirts and cascade down the sides of simple cotton dresses or attached gold, super-sized rosettes to the hip of an equally ruched skirt. I asked myself, why do I like this so much? Well, the idea of playing with opposite aesthetics, with the feminine and masculine, combining decadent gold leather or lace with much simpler textures and colors is immensely appealing. And van Noten wasn’t the only one who did it (although for me, in the most original and interesting way). Haider Ackermann, the grand master of gender play, used  shimmering metallic fabrics on a boxy man’s jacket or slouchy shorts. Joseph Altuzarra put his model in a shimmering gold skirt and a simple white shirt. Alber Elbaz at Lanvin showed a thoroughly shimmering collection, not so much mixing the metallics with anything simpler. At Margiela, you had a heavily embelished, totally sequined gold top worn with man’s trousers. And of course, who could forget Proenza Schouler back in New York and their beautiful gold and chrome dresses and shimmery delicate pleated skirts. What do you think, do you like this as much as I do?

DRIES VAN NOTENDries van Noten_1 Dries van Noten_2 Dries van Noten_7 Dries van Noten_8 Dries van Noten_9 Dries van Noten_11 Dries van Noten_15 Dries van Noten_16 Dries van Noten_17 Dries van Noten_18

HAIDER ACKERMANNAckermann_Gold_1 Ackermann_Gold_2 Ackermann_Gold_3 Ackermann_Gold_4 Ackermann_Gold_5 Ackermann_Gold_6


LANVINLanvin_Gold_2 Lanvin_Gold_1

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELAMargiela_Gold_2Margiela_Gold

PROENZA SCHOULERProenza Schouler_6 Proenza Schouler_5 Proenza Schouler_4

There were lots of great collections in Milan (Jil Sander and Marni to name but a few), but after having seen Prada, there is really nothing much left to hear, see or do. Miuccia Prada showed such a rich, intelligent collection, managing to show beautiful clothes, while at the same time making a strong political-feminist statement.
So: If you weren’t interested in political messages, you’d find gorgeous color combinations, three-dimensional embellishments, gems and crystals, classically beautiful gowns and tiny, extremely ladylike handbags. If you wanted weirdness, you’d be happy with the usual pretty-ugly shoes, American Apparel-style leg warmers and sleeveless rugby sweaters worn under elegant dresses. And then, politics: The bras stitched upon coats made you think of the enticement usually associated with them, but the way they were placed on the garments, their shapes and presentation (and the overall styling of the clothes, for that matter) put all sexiness ad absurdum. The strong female faces on the coats and skirts were commissioned by Prada to a group of mural artists; their paintings were also on display in the show’s venue. To quote Miuccia: “I want to inspire women to struggle.”
All together, what on paper may sound like a confounding and incoherent head-scratcher resulted in one of the most creative and innovative collections of Fashion Month so far.

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Milan Fashion Week is already wellllll under way, so let’s see what London Fashion Week had to offer (or more specifically, what I particularly liked)!

So, let’s see, what do we have here: the return of the granny panties, worn under see-through lace skirts and combined with some cardigans and sweaters. Soft, pretty pastels, lace shirt dresses, coats, pencil skirts, trench coats and simple sweaters in cashmere, lace, suede and silk with colors ranging from pink to mint, mauve and blue. Everything thrown together made for a somewhat unspectacular, but very cozy looking collection.Burberry Prorsum_1 Burberry Prorsum_2 Burberry Prorsum_3 Burberry Prorsum_4 Burberry Prorsum_5 Burberry Prorsum_6

Christopher Kane
There were flowers all over Kane’s clothes. I particularly liked the metallic outlined, petal shaped cutouts, the sweaters with the cap lettering spelling “FLOWER” or “PETAL” and the dresses and tops showing images of flowers’ reproductive organs as found in old school books. I mean, for Spring, a lot of designers show little flowers here and there, but Kane came up with really new ideas on how to use this old Spring staple. There were also graphics of how photosynthesis works, laser-cut in tops and skirts. And let’s not forget the crocodile clips used to hold the front of dresses together (what do you use them for normally, anyway?).christopher_kane_1christopher_kane_3 christopher_kane_4 christopher_kane_8 christopher_kane_9 christopher_kane_13 christopher_kane_15 christopher_kane_21 christopher_kane_22 christopher_kane_26 christopher_kane_28 christopher_kane_31 christopher_kane_32 christopher_kane_34

Duro Olowu
Honestly, even Mrs. O is a fan of him, and how wouldn’t she? Just look at Olowu’s use of color, how he isn’t afraid to clash prints and textures. Gorgeous.Duro Olowu_1 Duro Olowu_2 Duro Olowu_3 Duro Olowu_4 Duro Olowu_5 Duro Olowu_6 Duro Olowu_7

Emilia Wickstead
Emilia Wickstead’s collection is feminine, fresh and charming. Nothing to get too crazy about, but really nice to look at. Yeah, sometimes, that’s all it takes.Emilia Wickstead_1 Emilia Wickstead_2 Emilia Wickstead_3 Emilia Wickstead_4 Emilia Wickstead_5

Mary Katrantzou
Ms. Katrantzou, the queen of blowing up random things, did  it again; this time with shoes, laces, eyelets and perforations of men’s brogues, sport shoes and evening slippers. Prints and color everywhere, also in her sugary sweet dresses in fluorescent pink, blue, green and yellow, embroidered and adorned with Swarovski crystals, ribbons and mirrors.Mary Katrantzou_1 Mary Katrantzou_2

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Peter Pilotto
Pilotto just announced his collaboration with Target and this time, thanks to Net-a-Porter, which will distribute the collection internationally, people (meaning me) wanting to buy yet another designer collaboration (please, never make them stop), will also have the opportunity to put their greedy hands on it. Oh, and the reason I get all excited? Well, why don’t you take a look:Peter Pilotto_1Peter Pilotto_2 Peter Pilotto_3 Peter Pilotto_4 Peter Pilotto_5 Peter Pilotto_6 Peter Pilotto_7 Peter Pilotto_9 Peter Pilotto_10

The all-white ensembles, combined with digital print fusing cuboid forms and florals and the somehow stiff and proper shirts made for an eye-catching collection.Preen_1 Preen_2 Preen_3 Preen_4

Roksanda Ilincic
Everything I love about this designer was on display in this collection: sharp silhouettes, geometric patterns, bold colors and color-blocking taken to the next level with bright neon greens and oranges. Roksanda Ilincic_1 Roksanda Ilincic_2 Roksanda Ilincic_3 Roksanda Ilincic_4 Roksanda Ilincic_5 Roksanda Ilincic_6

Tom Ford
Tom doing what Tommy does best: sexy leather, sexy body-hugging, sexy glitter, sexy high(est)-heels, sexy lace-up boots, sexy crystals and sexy glam!Tom Ford_1Tom Ford_2 Tom Ford_3 Tom Ford_4 Tom Ford_5 Tom Ford_6

NYFW has been over for a couple of days now and London Fashion Week is already well under way, but how could I ignore the most important fashion fetish there is: SHOES! So, without further ado and comment; because, really, those suckers totally speak for themselves, here is a (small, but nevertheless gorgeous) selection of shoes:

Alexander Wang
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Diane von Furstenberg

Helmut Lang
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Jason Wu
Jason Wu_5 Jason Wu_6 Jason Wu_10 Jason Wu_11

Victoria Beckham
Victoria Beckham_1 Victoria Beckham_10

3.1 Phillip Lim
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Rodarte_1 Rodarte_3 Rodarte_5 Rodarte_9

Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler_12 Proenza Schouler_13 Proenza Schouler_15  Proenza Schouler_17 Proenza Schouler_19 Proenza Schouler_21 Proenza Schouler_22

Everybody is talking about the circus NYFW has become, that it’s crowded with too many people trying to be snapped by a street style photographer, but who actually have no business being there in the first place. Well, Jimmy Kimmel really captured the whole hoo-ha in this video. He sent a reporter to Lincoln Center, who then asked people about designers such as “George Costanza“, “Willy Loman“, “Ricardo Montalbán” or “Edie Munster“. When asked what he thinks about one of these “designers”, one guy says that he has a “nice aesthetic” and that he liked his show. But the best comes at the end, when some other guy tells the reporter about a fake runway pic of a model wearing a watermelon on his head: “It’s called fashion. Look it up.”
Have a great weekend!